Project Update: Houligan's Alley by FSM

When compared to previous post it doesn't seem like I have made much progress since then. I have been working full speed though. All small things like building the dock, the shed, corrugated metal weathering, etc. take some time to complete.
Following chipping articles in Weathering magazine published by AK Interactive I have decided to employ sponge method to create rust spots on corrugated sheeting. Although magazine articles reference scotch (?) sponges I have decided to use makeup one. Honestly, it was only I could find at that particular moment. I think this "happy accident" was a success. Most military modelers work in larger scales and therefore scotch with bigger holes is preferred. I think in HO scale rust spots (chipping) would be oversized. After applying chipping effect I applied rusty wash what I suspect magazine refers to as filter and then added some streaks.
I hope to have fully completed Casey's Woodworking building for next update. Give me another week or so.

Project Update: Houligan's Alley by FSM

I have gone through entire instructions at this point. I am a little disappointed. Starting about somewhere towards the middle exact count of stripwood pieces needed disappears. It needs to be eyeballed or measured and counted. I have decided to account only the stripwood that needs to be painted. The process of preparing and painting I go through takes a little bit more time and is a bit inconvenient to do just few pieces at a time. Everything that gets stained with A&I can be done when it is needed. Well, maybe 15-20 minutes in advance.
Other than that I am having fun. I don't know if that is because I have been doing Bar Mills kits for so long and I needed a change or because Mr.Sellios packs so much fun into those yellow boxes...

Review: The Weathering Magazine Issue 3 "Chipping" by AK Interactive

I have been a subscriber of The Weathering magazine by AK Interactive since the first issue. The magazine primarily is targeting military modelers although there are some articles on non-military vehicles, rail cars and structures. I thought of doing reviews on all of the issues but before I finished the first one went out of print. The second one came out around holiday season and I had other thing on my mind. The third arrived last week. I read through it almost at once. I didn't even mind sitting at a car shop waiting for oil change to be done longer than it usually takes. I have decided to do a review while my memory is still fresh. In case if anyone wonders the first issue was on rust, the second on dust and dirt.
The third one is on paint chipping. What is nice about this issue that it contains a summary of techniques. Each technique is illustrated so it is easy to see what end result would be. Then all of that is covered again in more artistic manner in number of articles where authors do step by step. And then there is an article by Chuck Doan on wood structure peeling paint technique. It is solvent and acrylic paint method which I have heard about before. I can say it is very effective if used on larger scale model. As for smaller scales than O effect to effort ratio perhaps wouldn't be as great. I think for HO scale sponge technique is sufficient. Lets get back to other chipping. After reading the magazine I know why my attempt at using hairspray technique has failed. I tried it after collecting info on the web. While reading the magazine I learned that I missed few important things and that lead to failure. Great thing about the web is that it is all free or relatively free. Bad part about it is that it is constantly changing. One day it is there, the next is gone. Some essential info can get go away or misrepresented. Copying and preserving takes a lot of time. Copying is also getting harder because site owners are getting more protective of their content. Take for example YouTube. It is impossible for regular mortal to save a copy of a video. Of course, there are some ways to get around but it isn't as convenient as clicking mouse button. Therefore, The Weathering magazine provides the opportunity to have easily accessible concentrated material for someone who likes to build models. If someone's thing is web browsing and research then that person shouldn't buy it because it will spoil the fun for sure. All right, it seems I am having really hard time staying on topic. Lets get back to the magazine one more time. Few other things I would like to mention. This issue also covers not only to bare metal chipping but several different paint layer chipping as well. Although I don't think it is very common these days but things get repainted. Then top layer chips off due to bad paint job or improper handling exposing old paint but not bare metal. The technique used to achieve that look isn't difficult and I see myself using it to spice up my dioramas. Well, after I learn to use basic methods first... It is worth noting that there is variety of techniques presented suitable for models that are being painted from ground up as well as with prepainted ones. Lets not to leave out one detail as well. AK Interactive makes and sells weathering materials i.e. powders, solutions, etc. Perhaps 75% of content is based on use of their products. However, it isn't like a case of sponsored dish recipe where if one doesn't buy particular spice mix the dish won't have right flavor. The same effect can be achieved using variety of products by other makers. The magazine even provides an article on how to pick right hair spray for hair spray technique. There is always a choice.
To summarize I must say that after the first two issues I thought I would let my subscription lapse. I may rethink that after the third one although I still don't see what else in weathering can be covered besides what was and will be covered in the first four. By the way, the fourth one will be on oil and grease stains and spills.

Project Update: Houligan's Alley by FSM

I am working on Houligan's Alley full time. I have spent close to 3 sessions (approx. 1 hour each) preparing white metal castings. There is quite a number of them in the kit. The castings don't require much preparation but there are some mold joint lines that I like to remove. Many modelers most likely wouldn't touch them. I have decided this time to take a little different route painting castings that represent wood. I used to prime them with gray automotive primer, then paint with Polyscale Earth, and then take Brian Nolan's approach to finish them. I am not sure if Brian invented it but he presented it in one of the Scotty Mason's DVDs. Little different route means spraying castings with Camouflage series sand paint which is very close to Polyscale or Floquil Earth. There is only one paint layer involved so there is less chance of covering up smaller details. My main concern with this was that thinner layer of paint and it being paint and not primer would result in bare white metal spots after casting goes through the process of rubbing in weathering powders, soaking with rubbing alcohol, and then dry brushing. Well, it happened. Those spots were really small and only visible if casting was being held at certain angle but they were there and that bothered me. Perhaps with time white metal would oxidize but I wasn't going to wait. I took one casting and sprayed it with Krylon Clear Flat. The shiny spots went away. I guess it will be my procedure for painting castings that represent wood from now on. Only a problem is that I am low on Krylon Clear Flat and it has become harder to find and more expensive after Home Depot dropped Krylon line. I know Hobby Lobby and Michaels carry it but their prices are double of what Home Depot prices used to be. Perhaps it is time for 40% coupon. Or perhaps I should try Walmart's cheap stuff...
Besides castings I have made some progress on building itself. The corners were pain in the neck to do. I am not completely satisfied but I don't think I can improve them more. I think next time I do stucco I will assemble a structure first and then do stucco, paint, weather, etc. Yes, it is harder to install windows, signs and so on but end result should be better. The roof, canopy, and sway bracing aren't installed yet. I just put them together for photo shoot to show the progress. I have also painted a figure that will peek through wall hatch.
My all ahead of time preparation may be in jeopardy. Instructions call for only one piece of 0.020"x3/64" stripwood to be used for cupola's battens. I ended up using over one and half. Now my question is if I am going to run out of prepared stripwood and if I am going to be short of 0.020"x3/64" in the end.